Ferry to Megijima
Bus to caves
Caves: kitschy “ogres;” Snail Trail animations; Oninoko tile project–nice and cool inside
Short hike to observation platform, great views over the Inland Sea.
Bus back to town
Equipiose mirrored storehouse; Leandro Erlich’s “The presence of absence”
Lunch at IARA: seafood (pasta for me, paella for Elaine)
MECON in school building
Return ferry to Takamatsu
Ferry to Shodoshima Tonosho
Ferry to Teshima Karasho
Walk to Teshima Art museum, but didn’t go in
Janet Cardiff, Storm House
Shima Kitchen: Taste the Buddhism (sandalwood ice cream in lotus flower shape), coffee, nice terrace
Bus to port
No one wins multibasket; Fukushima quick architecture exhibit, walk to Boltanski Archives du Cœur (closed)
Return ferry to Tonosho and Takamatsu
Izakaya (“Okagesamade”?)–great tamago agedashi, shishamo, age dori, tsukemono
Pictures: descent from Megijima observation deck; MECON courtyard overhang; Taste the Buddhism; Fukushima quick architecture demonstration
The evening is worthy of another post. Our return ferry from Shodoshima was a car ferry. The boat was huge, thankfully with a concession stand. It was a 60 min ferry at the blue hour and the light over the water was spectacular.
Photos: changing evening landscape from the ferry
We got going a little late, 8:00am today. Walked to the port for the 9:10 ferry to Megijima. I think Dan has been skeptical about this island – it is hard to now with each if all the travel will be worth it – but the breathtaking vista at the top of the Megijima caves alone would have been worth the trip… 360 degree view of the area (oh yeah, and the caves felt like a refrigerator which was awesome). We sweat all morning… The heat and humidity are off the charts. The caves would have been really great had they not been full of totally bizarre demon statues (see also island legend).
Several of the art works here were fantastic, especially Erlich’s zen garden. But the highlight might be lunch which was a seafood island joint called IARA where Dan got linguini with red sauce and seafood and I had seafood paella. The mussels were delicious! Back on the boat we are bound now for the islands of Shodoshima and Teshima for more art.
We caught the high speed Takamatsue-Shodoshima without issue. The boat was really high end and smelled like a hospital… I think maybe Shodoshima is a place older people go to retire/rest.
Shodoshima port has nothing to offer. A shame since we had an hour to kill.
The 15 min ferry to Karato on Teshima was gorgeous – a sea of blue.
Karato port was the first and only time we experienced a breakdown in the near perfect Japanese timing systems. The ferry pulled in 6 minutes AFTER the hourly bus running to the art left the port ( and the ferry was on time ). So, faced with the option of waiting an hour for the bus and walking 2.6km uphill we decided to walk. This was a trying experience but we had “Taste the Buddhism” waiting for us at the top so… The good news is that the art at the top of the island was good… Especially “Storm” and the Setouchi gelato was fantastic (note to Setouchi attendees -skip the stamp for 165, the gelato is way better than the sandalwood ice cream and half the price!) We were sorry that the restaurant at Shima Kitchen closed at 4:30 and would not serve us food at 4:10… we had heard it was awesome and the outdoor terrace was lovely, plus, on our new meal schedule that felt like dinner time.
By some miracle we caught the bus back down to the port but with the hour wasted walking up the hill we missed both the Teshima Museum and the Boltanski. We theorized that the other Teshima port -Ieura- had bikes and Nissan electric bikes for rent since we saw them everywhere. If we did it all over again we would likely have followed the masses and done the same.
A big day with beautiful sites nonetheless. Now, we need to find some dinner.
Photos: Iara paella, the view from Megijima, Dan with demons